just how much stronger is a k1 non drilled to a KH

[BYZA]

hey well my rim is shitted, stuffed, un repairable, cracked from nippl
to hole, buckled from asshole to breakfast time, and flatspotted to th
house........so i am after a newie.

my question to all you unicyclists in yhe know: just how much stronge
is the koxx one un drilled trial rim ompared to the KH drilled trial
rim?

most of you know i have a kh drilled rim and as mentioned it is n
longer capable of holding the tyre away from the frame as my nipple
will not allow me to apply enough tension to pull the buckle out eve
with the spokes oposing them loosened off to the point that they ar
almost slack.

the dilemma is that from municycle.com the koxx one rim is twice (yea
you dont need to read that again it said twice) the price of the k
rim. so is it really worth the extra cost of to get the koxx rim? o
should i just get a new kh rim at the current rate of every 6 months?

see the upside of thekh is with the money saved i can get some funk
rim powdercoating and some spoke painting going on.

so yeah what do you guys think? worth it or not

--
BYZ

improving each day revs r cool, i say rev it up!
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[feel the light]

This is how we all learn about how new gear is holding up. What is you
weight and what did you do ? I am just curious, I don't know what th
strongest rim is.
This is how we want to learn (not paying ourselves !).:

--
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[BYZA]

i weigh 87kilograms as of this morning

first buckle, was a 5 set
second waa a 6 set
third was when i broke 4 spokes on the 6 set
fourth was doing a 180 down 5 set but stuffed up bad and landed about
90

i am also now looking into the onza hog ri

--
BYZ

improving each day revs r cool, i say rev it up!
CRANKFLIP CHAMPION!! 1st place )---'O, Crankflip lin
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[Jerrick]

I heard the Onza rim is just as bad. Bigger holes drilled out, and clos
clearance from drilling to nipple. Like on the KH.

Is municycle.com the only place to get a Koxx undrilled rim

--
Jerric

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[BYZA]

well its the only place that works out cheaper buying from australia

and yes after looking at the hog rim i have decided against i

--
BYZ

improving each day revs r cool, i say rev it up!
CRANKFLIP CHAMPION!! 1st place )---'O, Crankflip lin
to crankflip vid > http://youtu.be/8TmQnEIXc4Y
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[Det-riot]

have you tried renegade juggling. I know they dont charge extra for the
undrilled rim(at least when putting in on a uni). The regular rims are
65 USD so however much shipping comes out to....
--
Det-riot

sounds like he toook a feild trip to jail.... DON'T DROP THE SOAP
DUDE!!!

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[danger_uni]

Hey,

An undrilled rim is going to be stronger than a drilled rim. But in a
47 mm wide rim, this is much less of a factor than just keeping your
rim trued properly. For agressive riders it's a good idea to keep a
key in your pocket and true your rim after every ride, and also in the
middle of the ride if you hit hard off something.

And don't just true the spot that's out. Check the overall spoke
tightness and uniformly tighten every spoke. Usually I try to get the
rim as straight as I can, and then uniformly tighten all the spokes
using the valve as reference, and then recheck the true and adjust
again after that. This is especially important for a new uni because
the spokes tend to stretch and settle in after a few rides.

If you true your rim after it even gets slightly out, you may be able
to stick with the lighter drilled rim, and still have a way, way
stronger wheel then getting an undrilled rim but not taking care of it.


Kris
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[agentQ]

Kris
this is very true..(no pun intended, hah) but for most of the agressiv
riders out there, the ones that would need to put more attention int
trueing there wheel, are the ones that Im sure would rather be ridin
than fiddleing with spokes. Im not saying that just becuase someon
jumps big drops and such they dont want to keep their wheel in goo
shape, working on a uni is the next best thing to riding one. I jus
feel if a non-drilled rim is going to be a little more forgiving t
lake of care once and a while, its not a bad investment. I mean bi
street isnt about having the lightest uni, its about going big. I can
speak for everyone but after a hard day of riding I would much rathe
drink a beer than tighten my spokes and true a wheel

--
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[Uniman_3]

kris are you going to start making un drilled rims?
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[danger_uni]

I might experiment with drill shapes to optimize the strength/weight
ratio, but I want to stick with one rim type if I can do it, just
because it makes the unis more versatile.

IMO, we are already really fortunate that our sport has so little
maintenance requirements compared to bikes, so a little truing
shouldn't really be a big deal =)

Kris
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[feel the light]

Not a bad name for a new rim ! Byza is a bit over 190 lbs. I know
maker has to be able to sell x # of parts to turn a profit. It's eas
for me to say Kris should do it ! As the sport grows maybe the number
would work, for a line of heavy weight parts. Although maybe it woul
just move the break further up the chain. So an extra heavy rim an
spoke setup would mean broken hubs or other more costly parts.
It does seem like we aren't going to catch on in Samoa unles
something is done. I have not studied this , but I wonder about th
possibility of adapting motocross parts.
I can certainly see why Kris doesn't want the cost of redesigning
whole new uni for large guys going big. Yet making the 1/2 ton-3/4 to
etc. concept worked for trucks. Ultimately it does seem like more meta
will be the only way to keep parts from bending under heavier loads

--
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[skrobo]

more small holes or an hourglass shape should do the trick

there is NO way that I should have to maintain a top of the lin
unicycle that much. I am NOT up for truing/tightening my rim afte
every ride, and I think that most of the people on here will agree whe
I say it is unconventional to true out your rim every time. I'm no
going to mess with my unicycle after every big drop or gap. I do the
too much. there is no way I am going to put that much effort into m
unicycle for a ride. IT ISN'T worth it!

oh, by the way, a bunch of my nipples broke. i was truing them with TH
RIGHT SIZE spoke wrench(no i wasn't putting an unreasonable amount o
pressure) and they torqued and cracked. i am not sure if they are jus
defective or cheap, but that is lame

--
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[danger_uni]

Truing rims can be a pain, agreed. But my point doesn't have to do
with whether it is or isn't a pain or whether or not it is acceptable.


My point is that if you don't maintain your rim, you are going to take
it out of true regardless of whether it is drilled or not, because
proper spoke tension is a way bigger factor than drillholes.

Kris
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[Uniman_3]

yeah having a drilled rim that is strong is a good idea though!
have you tried that shape you did for the moment hubs

--
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[puresyn]

This is all the more reason why I will buy a KH20 over the other guy.
think it is awesome that we have such an involved designer/manufacture
involved in the input process!

Any chance that we will ever see mag wheels from Skyway on your K
gear? That might make for a very sturdy uni

--
puresy

“Never under any circumstances take a sleeping pill and a laxative o
the same night." -- Dave Barr
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[danger_uni]

I'd probably stay with spoked wheels for now because they are the mos
versatile for truing and for keeping the same hub if you need t
replace the rim

Kri

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[SARIN]

I'm glad you just posted this...

I just had the "pleasure" of my local bike shop staff pulling thie
hair out trying to locate those spokes as well. The owner told me tha
the two best wheel builders in North America have never even heard o
them. I'm having them rebuild my KH20 with the toughest 2.0 spoke
they can get ahold of with brass nipples just to make the stronges
wheel that they can for me. I'm not too worried about it though cu
it'll still be at least next year before I'm doing anything hard/tal
enough to make the thing flinch

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[MuniAddict]

Post by SARIN
I'm glad you just posted this..
I just had the "pleasure" of my local bike shop staff pulling thie
hair out trying to locate those spokes as well. The owner told me tha
the two best wheel builders in North America have never even heard o
them. I'm having them rebuild my KH20 with the toughest 2.0 spoke
they can get ahold of with brass nipples just to make the stronges
wheel that they can for me. I'm not too worried about it though cu
it'll still be at least next year before I'm doing anything hard/tal
enough to make the thing flinch

"2.0"? I've never heard of that guage! Btw, I'm now told that the Marw
14g black SS with *brass* nipple, NOT alum are what I should use in m
case. The 14's are easy to get I'm told also. But "2.0"...never hear
of that! If that *is* the gauge, that would be the thickes, heavies
spoke I've ever seen

--
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[Eroick]

The non drilled rim will be stronger by 43.345 units.

The truth is, that cannot be measured. It depends on a lot of things
As Kris said, given the exact same conditions on both rims, the no
drilled will be stronger. The question is: will you ever need tha
extra strength

--
Eroic

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[Unicaw89]

The question is: will you ever need that extra strength

Yes..

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[onelesscar]

Post by MuniAddict
"2.0"? I've never heard of that guage! Btw, I'm now told that the Marw
14g black SS with *brass* nipple, NOT alum are what I should use in m
case. The 14's are easy to get I'm told also. But "2.0"...never hear
of that! If that *is* the gauge, that would be the thickes, heavies
spoke I've ever seen

That would be the diameter in mm, Terry. And yes, brass nipples wil
be stronger than aluminum

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onelessca

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[onelesscar]

My post won't edit...gr..

2.0mm is 14G, 1.8mm is 15G, 2.34mm is 12G

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[MuniAddict]

Post by danger_uni
I'd probably stay with spoked wheels for now because they are the mos
versatile for truing and for keeping the same hub if you need t
replace the rim
Kri

Kris! This is a bit OT but I'm having my '07 KH muni's *drilled* ri
switched for a *large marge* rim which will be laced with new spokes t
the existing KH hub. QUESTION: My local LBS (Cynergy in santa monic
and very highly recommended by John Long) cannot locate 13g SS spokes
but does have the 14G. Will the 14g be sufficient strentgh for the L
and the KH hub? I weigh 145 lbs if that helps. Thanks

PS: The other part of my questions is, if they can't find the 13g, wil
12g fit the KH hub, or is that just too heavy of a gauge? Thanks again

--
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[SARIN]

I'm glad you just posted this...

I just had the "pleasure" of my local bike shop staff pulling thie
hair out trying to locate those spokes as well. The owner told me tha
the two best wheel builders in North America have never even heard o
them. I'm having them rebuild my KH20 with the toughest 2.0 spoke
they can get ahold of with brass nipples just to make the stronges
wheel that they can for me. I'm not too worried about it though cu
it'll still be at least next year before I'm doing anything hard/tal
enough to make the thing flinch

--
SARI

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[SARIN]

sorry for the double post...server sucks tonight

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[SARIN]

If I'm not mistaken 14g are 2.0mm, and 13g spokes are 2.3mm

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[danger_uni]

Post by MuniAddict
Kris! This is a bit OT but I'm having my '07 KH muni's *drilled* ri
switched for a *large marge* rim which will be laced with new spokes t
the existing KH hub. QUESTION: My local LBS (Cynergy in santa monic
and very highly recommended by John Long) cannot locate 13g SS spokes
but does have the 14G. Will the 14g be sufficient strentgh for the L
and the KH hub? I weigh 145 lbs if that helps. Thanks
PS: The other part of my questions is, if they can't find the 13g, wil
12g fit the KH hub, or is that just too heavy of a gauge? Thanks again

12 gauge will likely not fit, although you could probably do som
modifications to make it fit

I switched to 13g instead of 14g because I found that they seemed t
stretch less (ie I have to tighten all spokes less frequently), an
they kept the wheel in true for longer without adjustment. Also,
found that in some trials lines I would break the spokes by catchin
them on something (usually during gaps to pedal grabs) and 13g seems
bit stronger for that too.

All the KH unis used to come with 14g spokes, so a well-built whee
with that is OK. UDC should have replacement 13g spokes, but it'
true that they are hard to find at a LBS

Kri

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[skrobo]

and a place to find those spokes/nipples would be nice.

both the bikeshops in my town said that they used to carry them becaus
they were popular for a while, but it was a while back, so they don'
bother with the stuff any more and they couldn't find anything throug
their catalog(they are too lame to look any harder than that fo
anything.

--
skrob

<> Unicycle For Christ <><

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[m_extreme_uni]

I know that Sapim makes a tandem spoke that is 13g at the hub, and the
butts to 14g. Wheelsmith definitely makes a 13g spoke, and so does DT
you probably can't use the DT alpine sproke, due to the butting, for
trials wheel, but it should work for a MUni wheel, but you might nee
to lace 4X. Any bike store should be able to get 13g spokes easily.

However, more of a problem might be the cutting of the spokes. I doub
that these companies sell any spokes, stock that come in the lengt
required for trials wheels. You should search around for a shop tha
has a Phil Wood spoke cutting machine. I know Darren has one, but yo
might get lucky and find a local shop with one. If the shop has one o
these machines, you should be able to get the correct spokes no proble
at all. Just make sure they have the phil wood machine, and not th
park tool spoke threader.

As far as strength goes, you should be fine with 14g spokes, as long a
they are high quality, and have a rolled threads, and are well built
(these are much more of factors to wheel strength, than spok
thickness)

Anyways, I think its pretty lame that all you guys are complainin
about tensioning your wheels. If a wheel has proper tension, it will b
stronger than a wheel without proper tension REGARDLESS of the rim. I
theory all that A rim needs to accomplish is the hold the tire i
place, and support sufficient tension from the spokes. As it is, the K
rims are overbuilt for what they need to accomplish, however, fo
riders who are too lazy to tension their wheels, then any rim wil
flatspot.

If you have one loose spoke, then the entire wheels is compromised
What people need to understand is that spoked wheels are dynamic
allways moving when different forces are applied. When one spoke i
loose, then the force in that area is put directly on the rim, instea
of being supported by the spokes, as it should be.

Anyways, If your serious about unicycling, do some research on how t
build, and maintain wheels properly. Its especially important i
unicycling since we always hop in the same place in the wheel

--
m_extreme_un

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[MuniAddict]

... Its especially important in unicycling since we *always* hop in the
same place in the wheel.

"Always?" Well, in my case I regularly _rotate_ my cranks about 90
degrees every couple weeks or so, and also the tire. This will help
keep the tread wear more even, and keep the drop forces on the wheel
more balanced, instead of always on the same spot. I also try to check
my spoke tension every few days (since I ride almost daily) and simply
tighten any loose ones I may find.
--
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[onelesscar]

Well, then you always hop on the same 4 spots. Ryan's point stil
holds: trials bikers hop on every single point of their rim

--
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[Jerrick]

Post by onelesscar
Well, then you always hop on the same 4 spots. Ryan's point stil
holds: trials bikers hop on every single point of their rim

True mainly in trials. Muni has you landing on different spots. The
again, some people always drop a few times before a drop so they are i
their main hopping position.

In biking, they are hitting all 360 degrees of their rim throughout th
day.

For unicycling, even if you do rotate your cranks, you stil
concentrate on just one area at a time

--
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[skrobo]

but the brakes often catch the exact same part of the rim, causing
flat spot in the tire, especially true of the kid bikes w
pedal-backwards-brake

--
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<> Unicycle For Christ <><

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[MuniAddict]

Post by onelesscar
Well, then you always hop on the same 4 spots. Ryan's point stil
holds: trials bikers hop on every single point of their rim

I should have been less specific about the rotation; I actually try t
rotate *up* to 90 degrees each time, which really turns out to be mor
like 20-45 degrees sometimes, then 90 other times. But now That I'
thinking about it, I'm going to start doing the smaller rotations eac
time. And btw, even 4 spots are way better then only ONE spot only!:

--
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[torkerdx]

Post by MuniAddict
"Always?" Well, in my case I regularly _rotate_ my cranks about 9
degrees every couple weeks or so, and also the tire. This will hel
keep the tread wear more even, and keep the drop forces on the whee
more balanced, instead of always on the same spot. I also try to chec
my spoke tension every few days (since I ride almost daily) and simpl
tighten any loose ones I may find

so you are risking a $150 hub and crank set as opposed to a $50 (no
sure on cost) rim. the hub and crankset will start to not go togethe
as well after taking it apart a couple of times. also it means yo
will hop on the seam. which is the weak part of the rim (directl
across from the valve hole

--
torkerd

Post by MuniAddict
it's like running across the highway at rush hour. Dangerous, stupid
but not really that fun
Koxx rapes Torker hard
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[MuniAddict]

Post by torkerdx
so you are risking a $150 hub and crank set as opposed to a $50 (no
sure on cost) rim. the hub and crankset will start to not go togethe
as well after taking it apart a _couple_of_times_. also it means yo
will hop on the seam. which is the weak part of the rim (directl
across from the valve hole

so your advice is to *not* rotate the cranks? And it only take TW
cranks removals to cause a fit problem? Wow! Ok I guess I was dea
wrong.

Btw, the LM rim cost, depending on where you buy it, ranges from $89 a
AE bikes, to well over $135 elswhere

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[onelesscar]

I doubt that taking the cranks off is -that- much of a problem.
Aluminum will certainly creep (stretch) a little, but that's why ISI
is tapered. I'm sure it would take significantly more than tw
removals/installations to cause problems, though excessive cran
swapping/rotation could eventually be an issue

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[torkerdx]

So your advice is to *not* rotate the cranks? And you say it takes onl
_TWO_ cranks removals to cause a fit problem? Wow! Ok I guess I wa
dead wrong. (I should mention however, that I have removed the crank
on at least 5 occasions with absolutely *no* noticeable difference i
fit; it's still as snug and solid as ever with zero play. Oh and
haven't had the need to use loctite either)
Btw, since you said you weren't sure about the rim cost, the LM rim
depending on where you buy it, ranges from $89 at AE bikes, to wel
over $135 elswhere

yup. my advise is to not rotate the cranks. 2 times, not what i mean
despite that was what i said. sooner or later it will catch up to you
uni. personally i have never had a problem with that. (i haven
rotated my cranks) but i know people who have had problems after 1 o
2 rotations.
most rims (that the large majority of people ride or based o
expierence at moab) are less than $50 (just checked)
very few people to my knowledge ride LM's, with most people riding kh
alex, koxx and nimbus rims and what ever qu-ax runs

--
torkerd

it's like running across the highway at rush hour. Dangerous, stupid
but not really that fun
Koxx rapes Torker hard
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[BYZA]

geez la weez, people are we talking about rims spokes or hubs?

last i checked the thread was about rims.........

so, if you take notice the drill holes in the kh rim almost make th
second wall on the inside of the rim not a wall at all, the small bit
of metal left behind quite frankly wont hold shit, not trying to sa
kriss has an inferiour product but i am just telling it like it is.

now kriss, yes or no, is the 06kh rim stronger than the 07?

also yes i do keep my spokes at good tension but i am not fanatica
about checking them after every stair set, and i am not asking if spok
tension will make my wheel stronger, keep on topic..

sadly seeing i need a rim before the second of august i am going t
have to order from either NZ or aus udc, that means i have a choice o
either kh07 drilled from NZ, or oh yeehaa australia udc has zero trial
rims..... now that my friends is what lame is all about.

so looks like i am going to have to go for another pissy drilled kh an
start being fanatical about my spoke tensions.... better keep my ke
with me!! :(

so hopefully this one lasts another 6 months or s

--
BYZ

improving each day revs r cool, i say rev it up!
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[m_extreme_uni]

you should be able to take the cranks off and on hundreds of times
without problems, assuming you do it properly each time.

As far as rotating the cranks, it would reccomend against ever hoppin
on the rim joint. The rim joint won't be a problem if your wheel i
properly tensioned, however if it isn't you can do some major damage
and split the rim if you hop on the joint. Anyways, just thought I'
mention it.

Yeah, a lot of people just randomly tighten their spokes so that the
all feel kind of tight, you should really tension to tone, or use
spoke tensiometer. This removes any ambiguity of the tensioning proces
and will give a far stronger rim.

Having said all this, rims will still flatspot. I keep my rim in goo
tension, but i have a slight flatspot (about 1mm). Again, I do muc
bigger drops than 5-6 stairs, so you shouldn't have any problem wit
the KH rim.

-Rya

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[joemarshall]

Post by BYZA
sadly seeing i need a rim before the second of august i am going t
have to order from either NZ or aus udc, that means i have a choice o
either kh07 drilled from NZ, or oh yeehaa australia udc has zero trial
rims..... now that my friends is what lame is all about.

Isn't a unicycle trials rim just the same as a bike trials rim, ie. yo
can buy one from a shop that sells bike trials stuff too?

Jo

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[iridemymuni]

good luck getting a bike trials shop in australia. its terrible. i had
to get my rim from singapore.
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[joemarshall]

Post by iridemymuni
good luck getting a bike trials shop in australia. its terrible. i had
to get my rim from singapore.

This place at least has Koxx 1 (drilled) 19" rims

http://biketrialsaustralia.com/

Joe
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[MuniAddict]

Post by torkerdx
most rims (that the large majority of people ride or based o
expierence at moab) are less than $50 (just checked
* very few people to my knowledge ride LM's*, with most people ridin
kh, alex, koxx and nimbus rims and what ever qu-ax runs

For unicycle applications, the LM is used _exclusively_ for Muni
(24-26") and I was like you and *not* among the "very few people" wh
ride the LM...until I tried John Long's [vivalargo] Muni with the LM
My strong bet is (as is John Long's) that if all muni-ers tried the LM
they'd be instantly sold, as I was. It's simply like night & da
compared to ANY other rim, drilled or otherwise. Much more stable an
solid, (esp. for bigger drops) will roll over anything, zero tire fold
etc, etc.:

--
MuniAddic

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[vivalargo]

I ride a lot on rocks and my rim often goes outta true. IŽve actuall
bent two LM rims. Anyhow, I usually wait till the rim is crooked as
wagon wheel and then let the guy at the LBS true it back up. Obviousl
this is a lazy and poor strategy, so my question is, whatŽs involved i
learning to true a wheel out in the field. I hear Ryan talk abou
tensioners and so forth and IŽm instantly freaking lost. IŽm the wors
kind of mechanic.

Thanks,

J

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[maestro8]

Obviously this is a lazy and poor strategy, so my question is, whatŽ
involved in learning to true a wheel out in the field. I hear Rya
talk about tensioners and so forth and IŽm instantly freaking lost.
IŽm the worst kind of mechanic

The quick answer to your question is "give it a try yourself". You ma
strip a nipple or throw your wheel out of true on your first attempts
but you gotta break a few eggs to make an omlette, no? All you'll nee
to begin with is a proper spoke wrench and your hands. (By prope
spoke wrench I mean one that fits your nipples well, preferably at al
four corners. A cheap spoke wrench will round off those corners)

Your hand works as a "poor man's tensiometer" quite well. I'm sur
you've done this already, grabbed two parallel spokes and squeezed. G
around your wheel and do this and you may notice some spokes are easie
to squeeze than others. Tightening the looser spokes and comparin
this way will give you a ballpark approximation to a properly tensione
wheel, but it's a good start.

The next way to use your poor man's tensiometer is to pluck each spok
as if it were a guitar string. Physics tells us that a tighter strin
will ring with a higher musical pitch. Aim to have all of your spoke
ringing at approximately the same pitch. Of course, you may un-tru
your rim in the process, but the art here is finding a balance betwee
true and tension.

Here is John Allen's article on 'tensioning by ear
(http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm), and here is 'Sheldo
Brown's article on wheelbuilding
(http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html)... excellent writeup
suitable for both the beginner and the expert

--
maestro

Those are my principles. If you don't like those, I have others. -
Groucho Marx

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contemplate the extent of human stupidity. -- François-Marie Arouet d
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[joemarshall]

Post by maestro8
The next way to use your poor man's tensiometer is to pluck each spok
as if it were a guitar string. Physics tells us that a tighter strin
will ring with a higher musical pitch. Aim to have all of your spoke
ringing at approximately the same pitch. Of course, you may un-tru
your rim in the process, but the art here is finding a balance betwee
true and tension.

Knowing the note of your spokes is really useful. I know my muni i
slightly over B above middle C, which means if I'm at home, I can chec
out the tension with the piano.

Jo

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[onelesscar]

I guess it's too bad then that I don't know anything about music..

--
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[MuniAddict]

Post by joemarshall
Knowing the note of your spokes is really useful. I know my muni i
slightly over B above middle C, which means if I'm at home, I can chec
out the tension with the piano
Jo

Haha that's only accurate *if* your piano is at proper pitch! Fo
example if your piano is 1/2 step flat, your B would actually be B fla
(or A sharp same enharmonically). Pianos can easily drift from standar
A-440 in either and up (sharp) or down (flat) direction, depending o
the RH inside the piano. You best best would be to purchase a smal
electronic tuner that has audible notes in all or most octaves.

These are credit card sized and are 100% accurate and not subject t
the effects of humidity fluctucations. Of course we're not taling abou
tuning a piano, just getting the spoke tension *close* to a desire
pitch. So unless your piano is off pitch, it should serve your purpose
I would venture to say that just because you may get all your spokes a
the same pitch, that doesn't necessarily mean your rim will be totall
true. As in piano tuning, there are no absolutes and the art of Pian
tuning is a series of compromises to make the piano sound relativel
decent in *any* key

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[onelesscar]

Post by MuniAddict
I would venture to say that just because you may get all your spokes a
the same pitch, that doesn't necessarily mean your rim will be totall
true
Of course, you may un-true your rim in the process, but the art here i
finding a balance between true and tension

Yes, Terry. Unless the rim is perfect to begin with, you can't get
true wheel simply by applying even spoke tension. However, a wheel i
always strongest if the spokes are as similar of tensions as possible.

Once the rim becomes less than perfect, the spokes have to adjusted t
different tensions to correct imperfections in the wheel. Hence, th
art of wheel truing

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[BYZA]

i am wondering why i even bothered asking a question here....

i know a non drilled will be stronger but i asked if it was stronge
enough to be worth the extra cash.... nobody answered that, just said
oh yer it will be stronger, like fucken newsflash.

well lets hope i can make my new kh last for a whil

--
BYZ

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[saam]

Post by BYZA
i am wondering why i even bothered asking a question here....
i know a non drilled will be stronger but i asked if it was stronge
enough to be worth the extra cash.... nobody answered that, just said
oh yer it will be stronger, like fucken newsflash.
well lets hope i can make my new kh last for a whil

Take a chill pill my friend, deeeeeeep breaths man *inhale, hold
exhale*

No body can answer if it is worth it to you

--
saa

Sam :)

Post by BYZA
"Crippled but still keen, I salute you!

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[m_extreme_uni]

The actual tone of the spokes isn't that important. i.e. If you know yo
MUni is a certain tone, its not critical that it always remains at th
same tone. Whats more important is the uniformity of the spoke tension
The obviously you don't want a super loose wheel, but it doesn't mak
much difference if you have a "B" wheel, or an "A" wheel. As long a
all the spokes are either "B" or "A".

Although I can imagine it would be pretty fun to tune your wheel to
certain tone :cool:

Anyways, Once all the spokes are at the same tone, then you true th
wheel using small turns of the spoke key.

I think this thread turned out the be far more informative and usefu
than 99% of the threads in R.S.U. So, theres no reason to flip out jus
because someone didn't give a concrete answer. I don't know how muc
money you posses or how hard you work for it. Also, I don't know th
specifics of how much better the undrilled rim would be for you
Sorry.

-Rya

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[mscalisi]

I recently purchased 500 of each rim, and I'm hiring a team of people t
run a series of scientific tests on them, then quantize each's failur
mode, and provide a complete cost analysis. I'll have it to you b
Thursday of next week.

Post by BYZA
i am wondering why i even bothered asking a question here....
i know a non drilled will be stronger but i asked if it was stronge
enough to be worth the extra cash.... nobody answered that, just said
oh yer it will be stronger, like fucken newsflash.
well lets hope i can make my new kh last for a whil

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Post by BYZA
<> Unicycle for (reducing the) Buddha <>

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[fexnix]

Post by mscalisi
I recently purchased 500 of each rim, and I'm hiring a team of people t
run a series of scientific tests on them, then quantize each's failur
mode, and provide a complete cost analysis. I'll have it to you b
Thursday of next week

+1 rep :

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[joemarshall]

Post by MuniAddict
Haha that's only accurate *if* your piano is at proper pitch! Fo
example if your piano is 1/2 step flat, your B would actually be B fla
(or A sharp same enharmonically). Pianos can easily drift from standar
A-440 in either and up (sharp) or down (flat) direction,

Yeah, it drops about a quarter tone between tunings. I don't think i
makes a massive difference to my wheel though.

Jo

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[MuniAddict]

I ride a lot on rocks and my rim often goes outta true. *IŽve actuall
bent two LM rims.* J

So in your experience in having "bent two LM rims", would you say tha
they bend/get out of true more, less, or about the same as a standar
KH rim, wither drilled or undrilled?

And when you bent those two LM rims, were the spokes most likely on th
loose side? I keep hearing that only *one* or a very few loose spoke
can result in a rim getting bent, especially after a rather large drop

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[skrobo]

not to be a pain or anything, i was a little angry and out of i
earlier, but about those nipples, is that a common problem or could
have defective ones. I didn't put much pressure at all on them

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-last edited by \"elvisunifreak\" at 8:35 pm
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[danger_uni]

I'm working on some other shapes right now but probably nothing wil
change for quite a while though

Kri

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[uni_jim]

my nipples will not allow me to apply enough tension

hehe! :

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just because Kris can do it, doesnt mean its possible :)

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[feel the light]

Maybe they have something for you.
http://tinyurl.com/36vmcg
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